Leo and the team set off in December to make an attempt on an unclimbed route of the 1,300m  peak located in Queen Maud Land, eastern Antarctica.

The team celebrated Christmas and New Year in a stunning base camp before heading to the wall for 10 days climbing with the constant threat of bad weather.

Leo described the climb before setting off:

“Since I first heard of this otherworldly peak more than a decade ago I have dreamed of amassing the skill, strength and support necessary to reach this most elusive mountain.  Ulvetanna presents me and my team with a truly formidable challenge, which is exactly what draws us to it.

“After long preparation, our goal it is finally upon the horizon.  I have assembled a first-class crew and between us we now have a wealth of relevant experienced.  Crucially, during the last year, Berghaus, my team and I have gone to new lengths to develop, test and refine the very best kit required for this most extreme adventure.”

We’ll supply more details as they come in but a huge congratulations for the team.

Temperature: 8 C, clear, sunny, no clouds, 0 knots.

Date: 7/1/13

It’s hot, hot, hot here in sunny Antarctica. That means the temperature has soared above the freezing level and the wind has dropped off entirely.

Although the slightest air movement will have you reaching for your down jacket and face mask. This is mid-summer, Queen Maud Land, Antarctica and conditions do not get any better than this. Judging by the size of the task in hand we are going to need them and a little bit of luck to achieve our objective.

After a much needed rest day Stanley, Chris and me headed up the fixed ropes on the initial crack system from where Stanley free climbed the stunning final 60m hand crack to the ridge itself and I managed to get some shots and footage of the ascent, whilst my forearms cramped and my guts churned.

Expedition life looks glamorous but the reality is it’s hard, enduring and tough. The air here feels rarefied and many of the team have been suffering from symptoms similar to altitude sickness. The morning that I was to make my first contact with the wall it was my turn to have the constant sensation of wanting to vomit, feeling light headed and low energy.

Even the gallons of adrenaline I produced throughout the 250m jumar to the high point wasn’t enough to flush the sickness out of me and by then I had the fatigue and dehydration to deal with. Even holding the camera and unclipping a carabina would have my arms going into spasm. Fortunately Stanley is made of sterner stuff and his almost bionic-like physical prowess saw him send the crack in fine style with no rests and minimal cursing.

From here Leo and Jason took up the reigns and pushed the rope up further along the ridge another 200m or so.

Yesterday Stanley and Chris once more headed up to the high point to try to reach the col on the other side of the massive Gendarme (pinnacle). This was a point where we had sighted our next camp, we were hoping for a good ledge system and for the ridge to be easy enough to ferry loads back and forth to stock the first wall camp. Stanley and Chris left at 7am and were out of radio contact all day until they finally appeared back over the ridge at the top of the crack system some 12 hours later and made the long abseil back to the relative comforts of advanced base camp.

The news wasn’t good, another epic day of stretching the ropes out, climbing loose and hollow flakes on crumbly rock in ice filled cracks only to find the col was barely big enough to stand on never mind set up a camp. Stanley described the col as ‘one of the most amazing spots I’ve ever been to, but not somewhere you’d want to hang out’.

It’s also a lot more exposed to the icy wind on the ridge and loses the sun earlier than the north face… Plus the ridge was waayyy longer than anticipated and not so technically straight forward as it appears from the ground. Even if the col had been big enough for a camp how would be get all our kit there? A tactical debate about the climb was to dominate the evening’s hang out and proved inconclusive. More dehydrated food, hot chocolate, protein mix and sleeping through the midnight sun followed.

We’re almost halfway through our time on the ice, and still so many questions remain as to how we are to make the ascent of the north-east ridge of Ulvetanna.

‘I still haven’t figured out how to solve this problem’ Leo told me whilst being filmed last night back at advanced base camp.

Today Leo and Jason have headed up the ridge again to try and unlock Ulvetanna’s secrets, have we missed something in the cold and fatigue, is there an option not yet considered?

I can only tell you the team’s spirit is holding strong and if anyone can figure this out, its Leo and the boys.

Signing off Al Lee

Berghaus Store

For outdoor clothing from Berghaus including men’s waterproof jackets, women’s rucksacks and more then please visit our online store.
You can find a wide range of gear for climbing, hill walking, mountain biking and other activities.

Temperature: 5 C, clear, sunny and beautiful, 0 knots.

Date: 4/1/13 (David’s Birthday)

We have take off

Over the past few days, the boys have been missioning up multiple loads to ABC (Advanced Base Camp aka. Dungeons). Now this might be an average day for some, but for those of you that are not accustomed to sledging hundreds of kilos across the snow, double loading 45kg backpacks straight up a 45deg inclines several hundred feet up, dealing with knee deep snow and then traversing along a pretty exposed rock cliff, being confronted by the world’s most amazing rock scramble which on a normal day is FUN but when carrying such heavy loads it all becomes a pretty spicy and exhausting experience.

Did I mention Double Loading, that means doing the trip twice in a day…for 5 days! THESE GUYS are like machines! I only ever see them drinking coffee and treating themselves to the occasional handful of nuts, so I really don’t know how they get their energy!

Now that the majority of the near 1500kg of kit that we originally brought has been hauled up to ABC, the boys have set themselves onto pimping up Dungeons. Firstly, ABC. WOW! what a view! We have 3 tents, a massive balancing boulder (the size of a couple African Elephants playing twister) and a pimped out Cave that has been carved into the side of a snow ridge, taking nearly 6 hours to complete the cave can just about fit 4 people but it did take more out of the guys than they originally thought… The snow was super hard so shovels didn’t work.

It was like coal mining. But all worth it in the end. The cave is amazingly sheltered and has this beautiful blue colour and combined with the hundreds of facets scored into the icy snow by the saw, and the shiny surfaces resulting from breathing and water boil sessions inside the cave, it makes you feel like you have entered into a magical crystal dungeon, with a massive bench, a work table, shelf space, lined with sheep skin furs and a vent hole/ sky light with shafts of warm light entering this mythical world of blueness….ahh.. amazing! Did I mention those 4ft tall would find access into the cave easier than most.

SO… the news you have all been waiting for! The Climb! Yes finally after all this prep work, one day of rest, the guys have started the first few pitches.

All free climbing as far as I know. Leo started off with this amazing series of crack systems, Stanley climbed the second pitch which was an absolutely horrible off-width crack system. I watched most of Stanley’s wedging and wriggling through the 600mm lens that we brought with for filming… From my end it looked like a complete suffer fest of a pitch.   Leo continued with another Pitch which I didn’t witness much of as Chris and I came back to base camp for some battery charging and data backup. We discussed their move of getting in one more pitch despite the setting sun and thought that the boys would be pretty chuffed with themselves for completing the majority of the pillar leading up to the main ridge.

It was only earlier today that I heard that the guys had a bit of a spanking and needed a rest day today. Stanley apparently lost some skin during that off-width from hell. Today Leo has been frantically looking for a photo of the mountain with a less threatening perspective to motivate himself for the upcoming scariness that he realises they are about to face. Generally all pretty knackered.

Chris has left base camp to join the others up in ABC. Their plan tomorrow is to complete the first part leading up to the ridge. Al will be filming Stanley and doing his magic on the end of the rope tomorrow while the others make a start at fixing lines up that massive ridge and prepare for an exhausting haul/ load ferrying mission.

I will be joining them tomorrow in ABC meaning the 600mm lens. Right now, I am having to deal with a solar power system that is on the brink of death. Having 6 Large capacity batteries 2 weeks ago and now left with 2 it is getting pretty spicy my side. Seems like that recall we heard about the day we flew out to Antarctica had merit. So if the Blog Entries start slowing down, you know the reason.

David Reeves

Cameraman/grip

Berghaus Store

For outdoor clothing from Berghaus including men’s waterproof jackets, women’s rucksacks and more then please visit our online store.
You can find a wide range of gear for climbing, hill walking, mountain biking and other activities.

Temperature: -5 C, clear, sunny, beautiful, 0 knots.

Date: – 1/1/13

New Years on Ice – Leo

It seems in this strange new world the weather gods have welcomed us, at least for now. The cyclone we were braced for stalled before reaching us.

Novo just 100 miles away was pounded for 4 days by winds up to 86 knots (well over 100mph) and blizzard conditions.  Such a storm would’ve devastated even our well secured camp.

Here though we have been concerned by the ominous Russian forecasts the weather has been unprecedented. As I sit in the comms tent right now on New Years Day in this great white wilderness the sun is burning around the sky, it is -5C and there is not a breath of wind.

After running two final loads up the epic approach to ABC (advanced base camp) and nailing a Hollywood jib shot in the process, we celebrated NYE in Base Camp with steak and Champagne that froze in the glass whilst we drank.

The sun appeared to rise shortly before midnight as the shadow cast by Ulvetanna passed and we saw in 2013 basking in polar sunlight.

After much toil, everything we need for our next camp is in position and we are ready to move up to our stunning ABC, complete with en suite snow cave and out of this world view.

Today we make the committing but exciting move of leaving the comfort and security of Base Camp to begin the upwards assault. Everything and everyone is working superbly.

Spirits are high but energy is a little low, we have been working hard yet have barely begun. The task we have set for ourselves is huge. Our objective’s character ranges from inspiring friend to terrifying enemy depending on sun, snow and wind conditions.

The forecast for the next few days is good. We should start climbing tomorrow, in these conditions we will be using free boots and chalk!
Let’s hope that the weather gods extend their welcome a while longer!

Berghaus Store

For outdoor clothing from Berghaus including men’s waterproof jackets, women’s rucksacks and more then please visit our online store.
You can find a wide range of gear for climbing, hill walking, mountain biking and other activities.

Happy New Year Everybody!

Temperature: 34˚C, Partly Cloudy, SE 2 knots

Don’t know how I feel, part relived, part stressed, part nervous, part excited, part disbelief, part harsh reality!

But mainly unbelievably psyched that this is finally happening, at 11pm tonight the boys and I depart for QUEEN MAUD LAND !!!

It began in the Arctic with the Asgard Project, took us through the Never Never Land that is Yosemite and up The Prophet, onto the Lost World of Autana deep in the Amazon and now it leads us to the last great wilderness, Antarctica!

What an amazing journey, what an exceptional crew, what awe-inspiring landscapes, what excellent adventures.

Got a feeling this one is going to be tough.You must be careful what you wish for but honestly I genuinely hope that save for frostbitten extremities or serious accidents, we are pushed further and harder than ever before, get our arses kicked and a spirits near broken, and come back in one piece, friendships intact with a kick arse movie, some more truly epic tales and hopefully another elusive summit under our belts!

Just heard from the Russians that the day after we are due to be dropped off in base camp a 3 day storm is forecast.Looks like we’ll be straight in to the action, Gulp!
Leo
——————–
The anticipation is about to come to an end, after years of dreaming, and a lot of planning, we are about to fly to Antarctica. The good news is we have everything we need,the bad  a storm is going to greet us! We should have time to dig ourselves into a bomber camp, and then the first real test……

I’m not sure how I feel about this! Part of me is looking forward to seeing what this place has, the rest of me is scared of what it might have. It’s unlikely this will be the only bad weather we will face , so it’s to be hoped we take it in our stride, is this Antarctica flexing its muscles before unleashing a beating, or is it a warning shot designed to gain some respect!

After today, the anticipation will be gone, I’ll know what it’s like! By next week I will have weathered my first southern storm. Then it’s time to climb. Oh well here we go again.
Jason
——————–

The butterflies are churning today!  We spent our final afternoon in Capetown taking in the sights of Table Mountain, wearing flip flops and shorts in scorching heat.  Not going to be seeing that for a while.

One final packing rush, making sure chargers, phones, cameras, passports etc are sorted and packed away and we are off, dashing to the airport.  In a couple hours we’ll be aboard the Russian cold war transport Ilyushin 76 heading south to Novo base and the great white south.

Morale is high with the troops, we are absolutely psyched for this trip.  I can’t wait to actually see Ulvetanna in person after these months of planning.  Like Leo & Jas said, looks like we’ll get there just in time for a significant storm.  Looks as if it might be a white Christmas after all!

Over and out
Stanley
———————-

Here we go, about to head as far south as you can go, the anticipation has been mounting in me.  We’re going from 35 degrees to minus 35 and a storm for our arrival…..what a start! I want to get it all started and no doubt will have many moments in the next 5 weeks when i want it to be over!
Chris
The B team!

Berghaus Store

For outdoor clothing from Berghaus including men’s waterproof jackets, women’s rucksacks and more then please visit our online store.
You can find a wide range of gear for climbing, hill walking, mountain biking and other activities.

In reality I did not feel my toes from the minute we set off on the wall.  The numbness was replaced by pain as the soles of my feet defrosted on the walk out.  On the flight home I thought they might burst, 3 months after we embarked on our journey up the wall the pins and needles in my toes finally disappeared.  All this time I told myself it wasn’t that bad…

Now it’s March 2012 and tomorrow we fly to Greenland for some cold weather training!  The reality of an upcoming trip to Antarctica is that I’m about to be cold again, really cold.  It’s -25 right now in Greenland and were are going there to test equipment, systems and ourselves because finding out you can’t deal with your skis in -25 is better than finding out in Antarctica where it could be a lot colder and infinitely more serious.

So how do I feel about being cold?  Was Baffin really ‘not that bad’? In all honesty I’m a little bit gripped, In Baffin we were on an Arctic north face, we thought we would be in the sun on our chosen route, circumstances changed as did our objective.  We were under equipped for a north face, my boots were on the small side, and not giving me enough circulation and making my feet suffer.  I can rationalise it, but I’m still a bit worried, hopefully Greenland will put it all to bed and my feet will be toasty warm in my correct sized boots.  Either way I’m about to find out!

What I can say with hindsight is that the prospect of being really cold again has made me realise that Baffin was bad.  I really don’t want to go through that again.  Climbing is amazing, especially in remote places, but it isn’t worth my fingers or toes.  Am I not going to go?  Absolutely no way, it’s the unknown which attracts me to these places.  As I said the mind works in strange ways, what wasn’t that bad now seems not that appealing.  Oh well here we go again…………………………………