Imagine our fantasy climber has learnt her skills on the crags of the UK inspired by tales of Mick Fowler’s adventures in the Himalaya they begin to dream of their own expeditions.  What progression would her skills have to go through to reach that level? Remember we at Berghaus aren’t recommending you rush out omto the Golden Pillar of Spantik, this is more a virtual challenge, although there is no harm in dreaming.

Point Five Gully, V,5 325m, Ben Nevis, Scotland
Mick’s winter climbing started like many with the great classic routes of Scotland.  The big Scottish routes such as Point Five on the Ben will get you used to long days on the hill perhaps dealing with less than ideal snow conditions or how to belay in a torrent of spindrift, all crucial skills when you head out to the bigger mountains.

The Fly Direct VII,6 240m, Creag Meagaidh, Scotland
Mick’s Scottish new routes are the stuff of legend.  For a start at the time he was living in London nine or ten hours drive from the Highlands.  Despite this Mick would manage each weekend to make the trip up north and bag new line after new line from under the noses of local activists.  The Fly was one example and is now one of Scotland’s most coveted ice routes.  Mick managed these forays from London thanks to his unlimited enthusiasm and an equally keen group of climbing partners willing to share the drives and early starts.  Both key ingredients to success in the Greater Ranges.

Frendo Spur, D sup, 1200m, Aiguille du Midi, France
Whilst by no means a route for alpine novices the technical difficulties are moderate compared with the likes of the Fly Direct.  What you do get though is the crucial challenge of altitude, rising up to a finish on the Midi Plan Ridge at metres.  How you adapt to altitude is likely to be an important factor in any success in the Himalaya.  Some people struggle, while some seem to thrive.  Mick admits to lying somewhere between the two extremes but his determination has helped him up a lifetimes worth of routes up to the 7000m mark.

The Walker Spur, ED1, 1200m, North Face Grandes Jorasses, France
Anyone hoping for Himalayan glory will need to have paid their dues in the Alps on the classic North Faces.  Mick has often referred to the Walker Spur as one of his touch stone routes.  The Walker Spur was first climbed in 1938 but it remains to this day a long and sustained climb that will test your ability to pace yourself over multiple pitches of technical difficulty.

Taulliraju South Face, ED3, 800m Cordillera Blanca, Peru
Routes like Mick’s South Face of Taulliraju make an excellent introduction to extreme greater range climbing in developing countries. Technical difficulties are severe but logistical challenges slight. Peruvian snow conditions can be exciting and you will find it an all round high level test of mountaineering skills. And at 5830m you will definitely be feeling the altitude. A great stepping stone to the Himalaya.

Khumbu Region, Nepal Himalaya
A trip to the Himalaya holds numerous hidden hurdles which often get overlooked when thinking about the world’s biggest mountains.  There’s the almost inevitable illness, the complications of travel in Asia and the at times bewildering bureaucracy.  Survive that and of course you have the challenges of altitude, cold and winds.  Mick has always avoided the relatively crowded 8000m peaks opting for untrodden technical peaks between 6 and 7000m, whilst well travelled there is still new ground and only moderate bureaucratic challenge to be found in the Khumbu region.

Click here to find out about Mick’s favourite kit for his expeditions

Imagine our fantasy climber has learnt her rock skills on the crags of the UK and having read about Leo Houlding’s recent expedition to Baffin Island to climb the stunning Mount Asgard they fancy a go themselves.  What progression would her skills have to go through to reach that level? Remember we at Berghaus aren’t recommending you attempt any of these extreme challenges but sometimes it’s fun to imagine.

Lord of the Flies, E6 6a, 40m, Dinas Cromlech, North Wales
Leo’s big wall free climbs have all been achieved on the foundations of his single pitch rock climbing skills honed in the UK.  First in the Lake District, then North Wales and the Peak District.  Lord of the Flies is a classic example of the bold traditional routes that fine tuned Leo’s ability to make hard moves a long way above protection.  This pitch has seen some enormous falls and has several points where a lob could have serious consequences.  You have been warned!  While you are up there best not to think of Leo’s night time ascent in approach shoes.

Thing on a Spring E6 7a, The Roaches, UK
If you want to free climb Big Walls then you’ll need to refine your technical rock climbing skills back home first.  Leo’s ability to climb E5 and E6 pitches in the Arctic is built on his experiences climbing routes like Thing on a Spring on the Gritstone of Staffordshire.  This route lives up to its name with the crux a dramatic leap from tiny pebble holds.

Astroman, 5.11c, 11 pitches, Yosemite, USA
One of the most coveted free climbs in the valley and an essential right of passage for aspirant heroes.  A route of sustained difficulty but with widely contrasting pitches covered the full smorgasbord of granite climbing skills.  The first crux is a thin finger tip crack to test your power.  Next the Enduro Corner works on yes you’ve guessed it your endurance with only a handful of footholds on this hand crack in a corner.  About halfway up lies the infamous Harding Slot a super squeezy narrow chimney accessed by powerful laybacking; a pitch that has seen several climbers stuck for hours.  And if that wasn’t enough there’s still the technical Changing Corners pitch to come.  The ability to climb not just one but multiple hard pitches is one of the keys to big wall climbing.

Regular Route North West Face, Half Dome, 5.12b, 24 pitches, Yosemite, USA
In some ways Half Dome is more impressive than El Capitan.  The view from the valley floor is particularly striking with the North West face begging to be climbed.  It sees relatively few free ascents partly due to the long approach but also due to the sustained crack climbing and a challenging crux wall.  Leo talks about Yosemite as the training ground for all major big wall free climbing around the world, and Half Dome is a comprehensive test of anyone’s granite climbing skills.

Freerider, El Cap 5.12d, m, 35 pitches, Yosemite, USA
This is the “easy” big wall free route on El Capitan, the others being 5.13 (E7) or harder.  But when we say “easy” we mean it’s utterly desperate as opposed to impossible.  Your warm up involves ten pitches of granite slabs and cracks up to E4 at which point the difficulties come thick and fast.  The hardest technical moves involve a dynamic slap on tiny granite edges, but there are as tough pitches to come; the super sustained cracks of pitches 29 and 30 for instance, and of course the notorious offwidth crack of pitch 34.  Graded a lowly 5.10 or E3 this pitch has reduced many of the world’s best to tears, some while being filmed for telly!  Note Leo climbed this route with Sean Leary and then continued over to Half Dome for the North West face all in a single day, an exercise that built the stamina and mental toughness necessary for their Baffin climb.

Tasermiut Fjord Big Walls, Southern Greenland
Although this is an area that Leo hasn’t visited it’s a good example of the final step in preparation for considering freeing a route on Mount Asgard.  For a start it’s on the edge of the Arctic Circle and so you will have to contend with cold, wind, glacial hazards as well as “normal” big wall hazards such as loose rock.  Despite that the walls on offer here include the 700m Nalumasortoq, the 1000m Ulamertorssuaq and the 1400m Ketil.  With an easier approach and many more established routes it could be the final test before you head to Baffin.

Tower Ridge Diff, 600m, Ben Nevis, Scotland
First climbed in 1892 Tower Ridge still attracts devotees each year.  As one of the longest rock routes in the UK and a dominating feature on the north face of Britain’s highest mountain its attraction is obvious.  A lot of the climbing is steady, if exposed, scrambling interspersed with more challenging chimneys, traverses and steps.  Route finding “nous” is essential and the sheer scale of the route shouldn’t be under-estimated.  The competent and prepared will be rewarded with the highest finish of any UK rock route.

Grooved Arete V Diff, 120m, 5 Pitches, Pikes Crag, Scafell, Lake District
Pike’s Crag is Scafell’s friendly side with its clean rock catching all the sun going.  A prominent arete falls from its highest point and it comes as a surprise to find a relatively amenable route climbs such an impressive feature.  Grooved Arete isn’t a giveaway at the grade with some fairly steep crack climbing but holds and protection abound and the views over Wasdale are stunning.

Troutdale Pinnacle S, 105m, 6 pitches, Black Crag, Borrowdale, Lake District
It is easy to see why Troutdale Pinnacle is often many climbers first multi pitch route.  Solid reliable rock, good protection, excellent stances and six pitches of diverse and interesting climbing.  Add to that the setting of Black Crag high in Troutdale valley and you have the recipe for a perfect days climbing.

Main Wall HS 4b, 140m, 6 pitches, Cyrn Las, Llanberis Pass, N Wales
One of the great mountain classics of North Wales, Main Wall has an imposing feel to it for the grade.  Technical interest is sustained throughout, with the exposure building to a climax on the superbly positioned fifth pitch.  Moving up the edge of the slab here with the whole of the Llanberis pass at your heels is a memory that will last a lifetime.

Botterill Slab VS 4c, 87m, 3 pitches, Scafell, Lake District
Of the great walls of Scafell perhaps Central Buttress is the most impressive.  Botterill’s Slab takes a compelling line up a slanting rake on its left.  The main pitch a long golden slab just begging to be climbed.

Centurion HVS 5a, 190m, 7 pitches, Ben Nevis, Scotland
Carn Dearg is the steepest most imposing buttress on Ben Nevis dominating the view on the walk up.  Centurion takes the huge corner line up the middle with climbing of quality to match such an eye catching line.  Scottish grades are notoriously tough, and pitch two can remain damp but gird your loins and you will be rewarded with sustained, steep and sensational climbing up one of the UK’s great multi-pitch challenges.