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Sean Leary



Experienced Speed Climber
R.I.P Sean Leary 1975-2014

Sean ‘Stanley’ Leary was a brilliant climber, wonderfully exuberant character and much loved member of the Berghaus team. He formed a fantastic partnership with Leo Houlding, and then in a bigger team with Jason Pickles, Alastair Lee, Chris Rabone and David Reeves, and with others along the way. They enjoyed amazing and varied adventures together and then shared them with the rest of the world..

Described as an unsung hero of modern Yosemite speed climbing, Stanley learned to climb in the Sierra Nevada range as a teenager. He held five speed records and climbed El Capitan over 50 times. In 2008, he and Leo made the first team free and BASE ascent of El Capitan and Half Dome in a day. He climbed light and fast in Patagonia, big wall style in Baffin, and alpine in Alaska. Most recently Stanley played a major part in Leo's first ascent of the east face of Cerro Autana (1400m), one of the Amazon’s most remote and sacred mountains. A film on the expedition was released in September 2012.


  • Established a new grade VI route on Great Cross Pillars in Sam Ford Fjord on Baffin Island in 1998
  • The first ascent of the east face of La Espada in Torres del Paine, Patagonia in 2001
  • The first free ascent of the Torre Central, Patagonia (via Bonington-Whillans route) 2002
  • Various free ascents in Argentine Patagonia in 2005, 2006, and 2008,
  • Free climbing El Mocho, Argentine Patagonia.
  • Climbed 3 Grade VI routes on El Capitan in a day with Alex Honnold (2010)


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