Profile

Sean Leary

Experienced Speed Climber

Described as an unsung hero of modern Yosemite speed climbing , Stanley (as he likes to be known) may be recognised from his involvement in the Asgard Project with Leo Houlding, where he was an invaluable member of the project team. Leo has huge respect for his achievements in the sport and has climbed extensively with Stanley in his home area of Yosemite, California.

Stanley learned to climb in the Sierra Nevada range as a teenager, and has been trying to embrace all the climbing disciplines since. He currently holds five speed records and has climbed El Capitan over 50 times . In 2008, he and Leo made the first team free and BASE ascent of El Capitan and Half Dome in a day . He has climbed light and fast in Patagonia, big wall style in Baffin, and alpine in Alaska. Most recently Stanley played a major part in Leo's first ascent of the east face of Cerro Autana (1400m), one of the Amazon’s most remote and sacred mountains. A film on the expedition is due to be released in September 2012.

Here are some more of Stanley’s achievements:
• Established a new grade VI route on Great Cross Pillars in Sam Ford Fjord on Baffin Island in 1998
• The first ascent of the east face of La Espada in Torres del Paine, Patagonia in 2001
• The first free ascent of the Torre Central, Patagonia (via Bonington-Whillans route) 2002
• Various free ascents in Argentine Patagonia in 2005, 2006, and 2008,
• Free climbing El Mocho, Argentine Patagonia.
• Climbed 3 Grade VI routes on El Capitan in a day with Alex Honnold (2010)

Aside from climbing Stanley participates in a number of other disciplines including: base jumping , wing suiting , white-water kayaking , skiing , and mountain biking . Stanley has some exciting plans for the future including more speed climbing on El Capitan.

We are delighted to welcome another exceptional climbing talent to the Berghaus athlete team.

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