British climber and adventurer Leo Houlding has led an international team to success on the first ascent of a major new route on the remarkable Antarctic peak, Ulvetanna (2930m).  Widely considered to be the most demanding peak on the harshest continent, the mile long north east ridge of the mountain has been described as one of “the last great climbs”.  The team included Sean Leary (USA), Jason Pickles (UK), David Reeves (South Africa), Chris Rabone (UK) and award winning film-maker Alastair Lee (UK).

Ulvetanna (“the wolf’s tooth” in Norwegian) is the jewel in the crown of the FenrisKjefeten (“the wolf’s jaw”) range of mountains of Queen Maud Land, eastern Antarctica.  After months of preparation, the expedition began in late December, sponsored by British outdoor brand Berghaus.

Leo Houlding commented:

“Ulvetanna’s fearsome north east ridge allowed us safe passage up and down from her summit, but not without showing a few teeth.  We’re back in base camp with all our stuff, the weather is great again and we’re all loving life.

“This landscape of endless white desert and giant rock fangs is totally out of this world.  At times in truly brutal conditions, we have all been pushed to our limits.  We have taken a beating, but come out on top – well, back at the bottom thankfully!

“We have just completed the first ascent of one of the world’s last great climbs and are all suitably psyched.  A decade of dreaming, a year of planning, a month on the ice, and a week on the wall and we have done it.  It’s a dream come true – nice one boys!”

NE Ridge Ulvetanna, 1750m, E6 6b, 5.12, A2 (C2)

We made it! And Louis just did a low fly by in the Basler! Can it get any wilder out here?

Ulvetanna’s fearsome North East Ridge allowed us safe passage up and down from her summit but not without showing a few teeth. We’re back in base camp with all our stuff, the weather is great again and we’re all loving life as we leisurely conduct another great gear faff.

In this endless light I have lost track of the passing of days, measuring time in terms energy spent and distance gained. There have been many 20 hour days of intense, gruelling effort and those spent too exhausted to leave camp.

At times in truly savage conditions we have conducted loads of complicated, scary missions and in the process safely climbed and cleaned all trace of our presence from this beautiful mountain.

We’ve all been pushed to our limits, taken a beating but come out top, well at the bottom thankfully. We have just completed the first ascent of one of the finest alpine/big wall lines anywhere and we are about to eat Steak accompanied by The GlenLivet 18. It does not get any better than this. Nice One boys.

We have done it. A decade of dreaming, a year of planning, a month on the ice, and week on the wall and we have done it! It is just starting to sink in that we have succeeded and are safe.

So to fill you in…

After a second gruelling haul and ferrying a bunch of loads along the drop jaw ridge we established a magnificent well stocked wall camp on the plateau of Great expectations in good conditions. The ledge at the end of the ridge is a feature of the mountain.

Sufficiently large and safe to take off your harness with plenty of space for gear, cooking, hanging out etc.

The two Port-a-ledges hung nicely protected from above by a roof and remarkably sheltered from the increasingly present SE wind on the North side. A bivi spot in a horizontal break right at the base of the headwall – the coffin – was more comfortable than it sounds.

The ominous headwall rises for 400m above. It is only in the sun from 7am until 2pm forcing us to begin the arduous process of brewing, eating, preparing and dressing for battle painfully early. On a countdown schedule we had to make continuous progress to be up and down in time for the Russians to pick us up.

Though we had been discussing a couple of route options from afar, up close the line was unmistakable.

A short blank slab that required 2 hand drilled bolts led to wild climbing up a perfect system of corners and cracks for 200m to a giant roof.

Stanley wriggled his way through the Roof slot of despair and we all braved shade and wind up off widths and chimneys above to reach the epic Snow Petrel pillar below the upper headwall.

That was when the Antarctic conditions we’ve spent so long fearing finally showed up! For three days, high winds, low temps and heavy snow battered us and the mountain. Thankfully we were ready.

Our sleeping bags are rated to -50 C and have been havens.

We had sufficient clothing, kit, strength and motivation to push on culminating in an unforgettable summit day during the worst conditions of the expedition.

We reached the epic, pointy summit in -35 C with wind chill, wearing thick beards of ice, and hearts full of joy. The cloud even broke for 5 mins dousing us in sun as we surveyed the panorama.

On the descent we cleaned the ropes until the Pillar.

The most perfect BASE exit beckoned down the east face, a compelling wingsuit line to a landing zone below the ‘rock’ would’ve completed the dream.

We considered leaving ropes fixed from camp and hoping for better conditions but having seen Ulvetanna growl we were too terrified to wait around to be bitten. We continued down to wall camp cleaning ropes, braced for a scary descent in poor conditions, dreams of flight postponed.

The next day we were all exhausted, intimidating clouds finally broke into the fine weather we have been enjoying since, a God send for the complicated descent. 3 endless days of hard, well executed, dare I say fun work and we are home.

Our out post on this glacier that a month ago felt like the edge of the world, now feels like home. Before the run to ABC felt like a serious day out, on our final load it was an enjoyable 3 hour round trip.

The Sun is now much lower in the sky and it is colder, -17 C earlier.

We are almost ready for airlift and keen to get out of here whilst the flying conditions are good.

The weather gods of Ulvetanna, Queen Maud Land, and Antarctica have been so kind; we don’t want to out stay our welcome.

Al.

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Leo and the team set off in December to make an attempt on an unclimbed route of the 1,300m  peak located in Queen Maud Land, eastern Antarctica.

The team celebrated Christmas and New Year in a stunning base camp before heading to the wall for 10 days climbing with the constant threat of bad weather.

Leo described the climb before setting off:

“Since I first heard of this otherworldly peak more than a decade ago I have dreamed of amassing the skill, strength and support necessary to reach this most elusive mountain.  Ulvetanna presents me and my team with a truly formidable challenge, which is exactly what draws us to it.

“After long preparation, our goal it is finally upon the horizon.  I have assembled a first-class crew and between us we now have a wealth of relevant experienced.  Crucially, during the last year, Berghaus, my team and I have gone to new lengths to develop, test and refine the very best kit required for this most extreme adventure.”

We’ll supply more details as they come in but a huge congratulations for the team.

So the big day arrives and I am on Coffee duty, Alarm set for 6am. Coffee Pot is on the boil and the boys where all woken up with a nice steamy hot brew. Everyone finally emerges out of their tents around 9am… no comment! Already we had lost one spork, in fact it was Leo’s Spork strangely enough. He was marching around ABC frantically searching for it before his porridge went completely cold.

Departure time: 11h00

The boys set off with absolutely massive loads (despite having done 2 hauls earlier) stumbling with the occasional face planting under the weight of the bag and the unstable snow. The route up to the base of the wall is pretty steep as I have mentioned in a previous post.  Most of the loads where carried on their backs one by one up the rope. Took a while for all 5 of them to get up. Next were the haul bags (or Sheep Smugglers as I like to call them.) they were pulled up the slope with a pulley system with both Jason and Chris acting as counterweight, running up and down the hill in short bursts , slowly edging the kit up the slope.  The boys only started jugging on the rock by 13h00. Al was first to go up to get into position to do a bit of filming, Stanley was next, followed by Jason, Chris and then Leo.

I filmed as much as I could before I started noticing the steep area I was filming from was starting to avalanche. It was incredibly hot in this “snow bowl” and as the day moved on, more and more snow rivers started trickling down. Slightly scary when a 5 meter wide path of snow slowly started moving directly towards me with a massive wall of snow 50 meters above you just sitting there.  Got to get out of there fast!

Throughout the day I heard them shouting to each other, spread hundreds of meters apart along the rock face. The occasional ”ROCK”  being shouted out (that is when you don’t look up in case you get a face full of rock) I filmed some more from a different angle of the boys slightly higher up, ran out of memory on my camera so then headed off back to Base Camp. In fact I was planning to stay in ABC, but the boys pinched all the fuel bottles and one of the MSR stoves so I couldn’t boil any water. Thanks for telling me guys!

Around 18h30 I radioed in to tell the boys the wind had picked up loads and to expect high winds on the ridge. (The ridge is only some 0,5m wide so wind is massively influential on the traverse) Al replied and said he had just arrived on the ridge and can confirm the stronger wind. His tone didn’t sound massively enthusiastic.

Next radio contact:

AL: I amon ledand putyF ooed.

Stanley: Can you repeat, are you on the ridge or the ledge? Over

Al: I am on the Ledge, L, E, D, G, E over.

Stanley: OK, we are one pitch from the ridge with the haul bags! Over.

AL: I wait here. I pretty F*&%cked!! (Spoken in a loud, slurred and fluctuating voice)

Wouldn’t expect anything less from someone who has just jugged up 500m of cliff face.

I have just received word at 13h30 today that the boys are all fine, they have just woken up and put a coffee on.

They only finished hauling in the early hours of this morning and after setting up portaledges and making dinner, everyone got to bed around 4am. They are all now be camped at the base of the headwall on the Ledge that has acquired the name “The Plateau of Great Expectations”

Today the boys are going to be relaxing. They had planned on doing some filming on the ridge, but they are only going to do that tomorrow. The day after, I suspect they might start climbing the Headwall, but more on that later.

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So the major Hauling session to get most of the kit up to the ridge turned out to be a 12hour turn around. A Long day! The guys came back to ABC looking really smashed…think they needed their day off. I was in Base Camp at the time backing up data, blogging and doing charging etc. Just about to pack up and leave on my 2 hour mission to ABC when I got a radio call for some last minute items that I needed to collect. It took me near 2 hours to collect and find everything and rummage through everyone’s dirty clothing bags…but eventually got there.

I eventually arrived at the “Rock” as it is known (Just below the main hill to get to ABC) with a sledge weighing in around 100kg, the trip was a nightmare as I only had 1 pulk and it was so full it kept falling over on every minor bend in the path combined with the gradually increasing run up of the hill. I was met by all the boys who came down to help carry everything up to ABC. (Nice little welcoming party.) Al & I where chatting away (he seemed loads happier and positive than he had been the last week or so) and then he dropped the news on me. Seems like the plan had changed slightly and that they were all going up, Chris was being kidnapped. Which means I am going to be on my own for the next 10 days.

In some ways, it’s going to be a lonely, but in many ways I am glad Chris is going up to help, not only will it make filming a whole load easier as now we have 2 complete climbing teams, but mostly it was going to help for the return trip, as even with the new easier route down the mountain fixed in place, it was still going to be a complete Epic for just Al and Jas to deal with on their own (I can now see why Al seemed way happier, massive weight off his shoulders!).

Before going to sleep that night in ABC, we all enjoyed another amazing evening of Meat Meat and more Meat….mmmm There is always excitement in the air when Stanley works his magic on the stove, but last night was different, the Meat “Happiness” was being combined by the next day’s excitement/ Anxiety/ scariness/ anticipation…. Yes you guessed it. The next day was when everyone moves up “Blast OFF time” Continuing with this epic expedition. Stanley murmuring and chatting to himself, psyching himself up.  Jason singing out loud ”Big Wall Suffer fest, BIG WALL SUFFER FEST!” in a kind of war chant, while holding his hands out staring at them, almost in a kind of appreciation of the painful swollen hands which he was about to experience. Al, was preparing his climbing harness and attaching all his camera and lenses pouches among his climbing apparel. Chris was kind of in limbo, still sorting general camp things out but still trying to get into climbing mode (being in a mindset of reading and chilling out for 10 days and then being thrown into 10 days of scariness can be somewhat of a shock).

Leo was of course the only actual person getting things ready for the trip, dashing back and forth, sorting kit out and almost lost in his own thoughts which the occasional shout out “everyone packed their Spork, Yeah?” or “who’s got the whiskey?”. Bed time was around 23h00 instead of the planned 21h00 but who cares when you munching on delicious steaks and Boere Wors.

David

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Temperature: 5 deg C, clear, high level clouds, 0 knots.

Date: 11/1/13

Stanley: “Hold on Guys” (Spoken in that chilled out American way) “There is no way that we are going to haul all our sh*t up this ridge, never mind Al and Jas dealing once we jump off.” Over.

Jason:….. Silence

Stanley: “Stop hauling and lets go down to ABC and have a chinwag… Over”

That conversation was the start to a slight turn of events and another epic undertaking.

It was Leo and Jason’s “rest day” after an epic day of pushing and fixing a line up the ridge. It was now Stanley and Chris on the front line pushing forward fixing more rope and heading towards the headwall. The boys are making good headway, the day was warm, no wind and no cloud.

We had not had any radio contact with Stan and Chris for the whole day as we had lost line of sight for our radios to work. At around 14h00, Leo and Jas got out of their Pyjamas and headed over to the start of the climb to begin with hauling the first load up to the ridge. The first load consisting of 2 large haul bags (each one big enough to smuggle a sheep) and 3 portaledges all with a combined weight larger than Leo or Jas.

Now this was a rather interesting operation to witness let alone film. The boys “Jumared” some 100m up the ropes before starting to haul the load, Leo starts taking up the tension of the haul rope and being attached to the other end of the line, he begins walking down the rock face (as a counterweight), not much reaction from the massive load sitting on the snow some 100 meters below them.

So Leo begins to jump on the rope which eventually turns into violently throwing his weight onto the line, finally there was movement and the load started its journey up the snow slope, until the load got caught on the first rock it hit.

Both Leo and Jas attached themselves to the haul line, now both violently jumping on the rope in tandem (a rather beautiful synchronised display of rope access in action) trying to free the haul bags.

Still nothing. Jas goes down to the bottom to free the load while Leo continuing with his violent jerking on the side of the mountain until Jas climbs back up again to give Leo a hand.

Once again, no sooner had Jason arrived to help Leo, the load got stuck again, Down Jas goes again. Abseiling on one line, and not wanting to go all the way down to the bags, he then walks across the face some 5 meters and then making a final jump, grabs hold of the massively tensioned haul line. So now Jas is suspended horizontally in mid air, 50m off the ground shaking and yanking on the rope, resembling a human arrow with Tourette’s ready to be launched into Antarctic Airspace.

Finally after a couple hours of hauling (with some great snag free examples too), just about ready to start hauling the load to a “ledge of sorts” 3/4 of the way up the face, Stanley rocks up at the top of the face, returning from an absolutely epic ridge traverse and radios in. Seems like the traverse was a complete nightmare with just a 15kg day pack, never mind dragging massive hemroid like haul bags from your waist, always in a constant state of having to Jumar or abseil along the horizontal lines they had fixed.

After much deliberation and chinwagging, it was decided that Leo and Jas were going to go complete climbing and fixing ropes to the base of the headwall (up the ridge commonly known to us as the dinosaurs back.)

Then after a rest day, Leo , Jas and Stanley would make one massive push of a day and completely strip off all the ropes from the bottom up to the Cole of despair.  (That is 17 pitches and some 1100m of rope). Then about 1 pitch up the dinosaurs back they were going to fix ropes down to the snowline some 500m below.

Despite the fact that we had run out of rope and needed to retrieve a load of the rope used on the ascent for the rest of the headwall, it also meant there would be a realistic and safe route already in place for Al and Jason who were going to have to come down alone after Leo and Stanley’s wingsuit off the mountain. Without this route in place, Al and Jason would have an absolutely mammoth task possibly very unrealistic task at that. All the rope and climbing gear would be up on the wall so the reality of Leo and Stanley climbing back up the mountain to help would not be possibly, leaving Al and Jason on the mountain to deal with everyone’s kit, all the climbing gear, all the sheep smugglers and all the rope fixing needed to get off the mountain. So there was only one real option.

So 4 days ago, Leo and Jas completed the ridge. The world’s scariest VS. (Very Severe) route and 2 days ago, the boys set off on their mission, 14 hours later,  they all returning (at around 23h00) completing their objective. All looking pretty knackered but also looking pretty please with themselves.

In fact they had not factored in the walk back on the snow, which they had to use an 5mm tag line to abseil down the snow slope which ran out halfway down the slope. It is ironic that after that epic long scary mountain mission, they are now faced with negotiating the remaining 50 meters of slippery icy snow slope with rock shoes/ boots which offer as much traction on snow as a pair of snow blades. I think after so much slipping and falling, the boys just resigned to the sitting position and ended up sliding down the slope on their bums.

In the mean time, over the past few days, some of us have disappeared for a couple hours here and there to do a bit of exploring of the area. Al, Chris and myself went to investigate a small rock on its own in the middle of the glacier, Seems like that little rock was pretty big and that couple hours ended up being half a day.

But the views were amazing, travelling up the eastern valley and seeing the range behind Ulvetanna in more detail.

2 days ago Al and Chris went to pay a visit to the Frenchies that joined  us during Christmas.

They are based next to Holtanna. Took them 11 hours return. (5 hours each way) Not a bad way to spend your day. Apparently, they had much better mix-a-drink orange juice than us and even had a platter to serve an array of French goodies for lunch. A platter!

Plan for the next few days. Well yesterday was a rest day, today everyone is hauling everything up the new line that they just fixed. They then plan to make a move to the top of the ridge and establish a wall camp either tomorrow or the day after depending on how the hauling session goes.

Cheers for now

David

PS. Just heard over the radio, the boys are still hauling kit up the new line and it is 22h00. I am guessing it’s going to be another rest day tomorrow!

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Temperature: 8 C, clear, sunny, no clouds, 0 knots.

Date: 7/1/13

It’s hot, hot, hot here in sunny Antarctica. That means the temperature has soared above the freezing level and the wind has dropped off entirely.

Although the slightest air movement will have you reaching for your down jacket and face mask. This is mid-summer, Queen Maud Land, Antarctica and conditions do not get any better than this. Judging by the size of the task in hand we are going to need them and a little bit of luck to achieve our objective.

After a much needed rest day Stanley, Chris and me headed up the fixed ropes on the initial crack system from where Stanley free climbed the stunning final 60m hand crack to the ridge itself and I managed to get some shots and footage of the ascent, whilst my forearms cramped and my guts churned.

Expedition life looks glamorous but the reality is it’s hard, enduring and tough. The air here feels rarefied and many of the team have been suffering from symptoms similar to altitude sickness. The morning that I was to make my first contact with the wall it was my turn to have the constant sensation of wanting to vomit, feeling light headed and low energy.

Even the gallons of adrenaline I produced throughout the 250m jumar to the high point wasn’t enough to flush the sickness out of me and by then I had the fatigue and dehydration to deal with. Even holding the camera and unclipping a carabina would have my arms going into spasm. Fortunately Stanley is made of sterner stuff and his almost bionic-like physical prowess saw him send the crack in fine style with no rests and minimal cursing.

From here Leo and Jason took up the reigns and pushed the rope up further along the ridge another 200m or so.

Yesterday Stanley and Chris once more headed up to the high point to try to reach the col on the other side of the massive Gendarme (pinnacle). This was a point where we had sighted our next camp, we were hoping for a good ledge system and for the ridge to be easy enough to ferry loads back and forth to stock the first wall camp. Stanley and Chris left at 7am and were out of radio contact all day until they finally appeared back over the ridge at the top of the crack system some 12 hours later and made the long abseil back to the relative comforts of advanced base camp.

The news wasn’t good, another epic day of stretching the ropes out, climbing loose and hollow flakes on crumbly rock in ice filled cracks only to find the col was barely big enough to stand on never mind set up a camp. Stanley described the col as ‘one of the most amazing spots I’ve ever been to, but not somewhere you’d want to hang out’.

It’s also a lot more exposed to the icy wind on the ridge and loses the sun earlier than the north face… Plus the ridge was waayyy longer than anticipated and not so technically straight forward as it appears from the ground. Even if the col had been big enough for a camp how would be get all our kit there? A tactical debate about the climb was to dominate the evening’s hang out and proved inconclusive. More dehydrated food, hot chocolate, protein mix and sleeping through the midnight sun followed.

We’re almost halfway through our time on the ice, and still so many questions remain as to how we are to make the ascent of the north-east ridge of Ulvetanna.

‘I still haven’t figured out how to solve this problem’ Leo told me whilst being filmed last night back at advanced base camp.

Today Leo and Jason have headed up the ridge again to try and unlock Ulvetanna’s secrets, have we missed something in the cold and fatigue, is there an option not yet considered?

I can only tell you the team’s spirit is holding strong and if anyone can figure this out, its Leo and the boys.

Signing off Al Lee

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Temperature: 5 C, clear, sunny and beautiful, 0 knots.

Date: 4/1/13 (David’s Birthday)

We have take off

Over the past few days, the boys have been missioning up multiple loads to ABC (Advanced Base Camp aka. Dungeons). Now this might be an average day for some, but for those of you that are not accustomed to sledging hundreds of kilos across the snow, double loading 45kg backpacks straight up a 45deg inclines several hundred feet up, dealing with knee deep snow and then traversing along a pretty exposed rock cliff, being confronted by the world’s most amazing rock scramble which on a normal day is FUN but when carrying such heavy loads it all becomes a pretty spicy and exhausting experience.

Did I mention Double Loading, that means doing the trip twice in a day…for 5 days! THESE GUYS are like machines! I only ever see them drinking coffee and treating themselves to the occasional handful of nuts, so I really don’t know how they get their energy!

Now that the majority of the near 1500kg of kit that we originally brought has been hauled up to ABC, the boys have set themselves onto pimping up Dungeons. Firstly, ABC. WOW! what a view! We have 3 tents, a massive balancing boulder (the size of a couple African Elephants playing twister) and a pimped out Cave that has been carved into the side of a snow ridge, taking nearly 6 hours to complete the cave can just about fit 4 people but it did take more out of the guys than they originally thought… The snow was super hard so shovels didn’t work.

It was like coal mining. But all worth it in the end. The cave is amazingly sheltered and has this beautiful blue colour and combined with the hundreds of facets scored into the icy snow by the saw, and the shiny surfaces resulting from breathing and water boil sessions inside the cave, it makes you feel like you have entered into a magical crystal dungeon, with a massive bench, a work table, shelf space, lined with sheep skin furs and a vent hole/ sky light with shafts of warm light entering this mythical world of blueness….ahh.. amazing! Did I mention those 4ft tall would find access into the cave easier than most.

SO… the news you have all been waiting for! The Climb! Yes finally after all this prep work, one day of rest, the guys have started the first few pitches.

All free climbing as far as I know. Leo started off with this amazing series of crack systems, Stanley climbed the second pitch which was an absolutely horrible off-width crack system. I watched most of Stanley’s wedging and wriggling through the 600mm lens that we brought with for filming… From my end it looked like a complete suffer fest of a pitch.   Leo continued with another Pitch which I didn’t witness much of as Chris and I came back to base camp for some battery charging and data backup. We discussed their move of getting in one more pitch despite the setting sun and thought that the boys would be pretty chuffed with themselves for completing the majority of the pillar leading up to the main ridge.

It was only earlier today that I heard that the guys had a bit of a spanking and needed a rest day today. Stanley apparently lost some skin during that off-width from hell. Today Leo has been frantically looking for a photo of the mountain with a less threatening perspective to motivate himself for the upcoming scariness that he realises they are about to face. Generally all pretty knackered.

Chris has left base camp to join the others up in ABC. Their plan tomorrow is to complete the first part leading up to the ridge. Al will be filming Stanley and doing his magic on the end of the rope tomorrow while the others make a start at fixing lines up that massive ridge and prepare for an exhausting haul/ load ferrying mission.

I will be joining them tomorrow in ABC meaning the 600mm lens. Right now, I am having to deal with a solar power system that is on the brink of death. Having 6 Large capacity batteries 2 weeks ago and now left with 2 it is getting pretty spicy my side. Seems like that recall we heard about the day we flew out to Antarctica had merit. So if the Blog Entries start slowing down, you know the reason.

David Reeves

Cameraman/grip

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Temperature: -5 C, clear, sunny, beautiful, 0 knots.

Date: – 1/1/13

New Years on Ice – Leo

It seems in this strange new world the weather gods have welcomed us, at least for now. The cyclone we were braced for stalled before reaching us.

Novo just 100 miles away was pounded for 4 days by winds up to 86 knots (well over 100mph) and blizzard conditions.  Such a storm would’ve devastated even our well secured camp.

Here though we have been concerned by the ominous Russian forecasts the weather has been unprecedented. As I sit in the comms tent right now on New Years Day in this great white wilderness the sun is burning around the sky, it is -5C and there is not a breath of wind.

After running two final loads up the epic approach to ABC (advanced base camp) and nailing a Hollywood jib shot in the process, we celebrated NYE in Base Camp with steak and Champagne that froze in the glass whilst we drank.

The sun appeared to rise shortly before midnight as the shadow cast by Ulvetanna passed and we saw in 2013 basking in polar sunlight.

After much toil, everything we need for our next camp is in position and we are ready to move up to our stunning ABC, complete with en suite snow cave and out of this world view.

Today we make the committing but exciting move of leaving the comfort and security of Base Camp to begin the upwards assault. Everything and everyone is working superbly.

Spirits are high but energy is a little low, we have been working hard yet have barely begun. The task we have set for ourselves is huge. Our objective’s character ranges from inspiring friend to terrifying enemy depending on sun, snow and wind conditions.

The forecast for the next few days is good. We should start climbing tomorrow, in these conditions we will be using free boots and chalk!
Let’s hope that the weather gods extend their welcome a while longer!

Berghaus Store

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You can find a wide range of gear for climbing, hill walking, mountain biking and other activities.

Happy New Year Everybody!

Temperature: -5 C, sunny and clear, 10 knots.

Date – 25/12/12

CHRISTMAS ON THE MOON

Amazing weather greeted us for our Christmas Day ski tour/recon to the base of the wall.  Clear sunny skies and warm temperatures definitely gave the day a holiday feel.  We left camp on skis with light packs and headed out across flat wind packed snow.

With Ulvetanna’s sharp spires and towering buttresses looming closer, the group’s morale was high.  Soaking in the absolutely stunning scenery we took our time, stopping every few hundred metres to shoot photos and marvel at the views.

The safest approach took us to the absolute start of the NE ridge we plan to climb, where Ulvetanna starts to rise from the flat expanse of ice.  We skied to a small col then ditched the skis and scrambled along a rocky spine separating the north and east faces.

To our right, steep snow slopes dropped to the bowl beneath the north face, while to the left the terrain plummeted hundreds of meters over a cliff to a glacier far below.

The team scrambled along this ridge, Ulvetanna’s sit-start, until the mountain shot up into sheer vertical alpinism and we couldn’t continue without rack and rope.  Here at the start of the climb, we found a sheltered scoop in the snow field which we decided would make a perfect advanced base camp.

We arrived late and although the sun was warm in our little snow valley, the cold shadow of Ulvetanna relentlessly crept closer.  We ran away.  Nobody wanted to be caught in that icy shade.  Once the sun leaves, temps plummet by tens of degrees and life stops being enjoyable.  Existence is reduced to the most basic needs of food and shelter.

Today we could strap on our skis and head back to the sunlight but once on the wall we’ll be forced to endure until the sun completes its circle around the Antarctic sky and brings us warmth again.  We’ll live in terms of sun and shade rather than day and night.

After a quick stop for tea we skied away toward our distant base camp. Behind us the sharp spine of the NE ridged sliced upward toward our future camps.  The weather was beautiful and the climb looked spectacular.

Tomorrow we’ll start shuttling loads the 4 km they need to be moved. It feels great to be moving toward our objective and we’re looking forward to the adventure that’s sure to come.

Happy Holidays!

Over and out

Stanley

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